Everybody knows the GT-R349 is a fantastic sub 250g 3" freestyle/race quadcopter. When searching through the market for a frame suitable for DJI FPV conversion, the GT-R jumped out. It had a perfect layout to build up the stack and still keep everything well mounted and protected. The conversion is quite simple and we've worked out all the hardware for you. You can fit in a dipole or circular polarized antenna. Conversion involves connecting the receiver to existing wires, soldering the Vista to the control board, gluing the camera into the canopy and threading new hardware into the stack. The assembly is compact but everything has a place. You can even add a 2x2 addressable LED to the backplate for easy visibility and chase!
This kit doesn't include the Caddx Vista - Click here to get the GT-R349 with Caddx Vista.
- Custom edition GT-R349 (no FPV gear but otherwise fully assembled)
- conversion hardware (screws, spacers, nuts)
- 3 canopies (clear, black, white)
- 2 sets of props
- lots of extra frame hardware
Build Photos and Notes (more coming soon):
- Take the short screws and put them through the canopy mounting holes on the bottom plate. Thread a black spacer onto each one, turning until snug.
- Loosen stack screws, remove the threaded white top plate leaving the screws in place. With a sharp knife, remove the 2 protruding 'spacers' from the top so it is flat.
- Remove the stack screws one at a time and replace them with the provided long M2 screws.
- Lift the flight controller so you can solder power wires for the Vista onto the ESC (use the battery pads or alternately the shunt and nearby ground)
- Prepare your receiver (if using one) and connect to the existing RX lead. Solder buzzer leads and LED (optional)
- Decide if you're going with a dipole or circular antenna. The dipole fits through a hole on the top and you'll want the Vista oriented with the UFL connector at the front. If you use the circular antenna, you'll want the UFL connector at the back.
- Circular Antenna only - drill out the top hole in the canopy and glue / goop the antenna in place.
- Solder wires for tx, rx, gnd (and sbus if using DJI Remote) to the flight controller. Place it back on the stack and reconnect it to the ESC if you disconnected it earlier.
- Put the white plate back on top of the flight controller and thread to the point of a little bit of compression on the stack. Place one short black spacer on each stack screw.
- Drop the Vista onto the stack to cut wires to the right length. Solder to the appropriate pads on the Vista.
- Fix the camera into the canopy at your desired angle by putting some GOOP or other flexible adhesive along the sides of the camera entrance on the canopy and set it aside to cure.
- Attach the antenna to the UFL connector on the Vista (if using the dipole make sure to put it through the canopy first).
- Put an M2 locknut on each stack screw and **very important** hold the screw in place with a driver while turning the locknut on. Tighten until it holds - no need to compress anything. It's necessary to hold the because the threaded white top plate will move if you allow the screw to turn. In fact you can set the tension on the stack this way - just turn the screw allowing the top to turn and the stack height will adjust.
- Drop the canopy on, route your wires and Vista cable (there's lots of room in the channel under the canopy). Tighten the 4 canopy screws and you're done!
Don't forget to turn MSP on for the port you used for tx/rx.
- Fury F4 OSD 8K flight controller: MPU6000 Six-Axis; OSD; 16M Flash; 5V 2A BEC;
- ESC: F25 20A Current Sensor 3-4S
- Motor: Mamba racing 1408 4000KV 3-4S
- Propeller: 3 inch
3-4S 550-850 mAh